To the Glory of God
... Since time immemorial, people have raised monuments in the worship of their gods. They have erected massive stones and left behind magical artifacts. Just as it has adopted and adapted other things, too, the Christian religion has also assumed this ancient form of representing religious sentiments. Whatever the immediate occasion or reason may have been, votive panels are set up "to the Glory of God…", and they are evidence not only of the piety of the donor, but a reflection of the general, deep religious feelings of the people living in the high mountains. They symbolize the presence of God and are appeals to pause, reflect, and pray. Wayside shrines have been prevalent in the Alpine region, including the Sciliar area, since the 14th Century. Usually, they are massive stone structures with a niche and a shingled roof, and are decorated chiefly with frescoes. The sequence of religious images of the most-beautiful shrines in our region are in part valuable examples of down-to-earth folk art reflecting a love of the homeland. Each era displays its own style, but the motifs are usually the same: The Passion of Christ, the Holy Family, the Virgin Mary and the Christ Child, and scenes from the Lives of the Saints.
But the deeper meaning of these wayside shrines is still hidden from superficial observation. Only if one spares the time and effort to look beyond the subjects in the foreground and the immediate impressions they create can one look deeper and partake of the modest beauty of these votive shrines as well as experience the feelings which engendered them. These shrines wait for the passerby who is searching for the spiritual essence of a landscape. Come with us, Gentle Reader, and accompany us on a journey to visit the living witnesses of the profound piety of a simple people, to discover the secret connection between the landscape and religious faith.
Our walk begins at the village square of Castelrotto, which we leave via the right archway of today's Town Hall and the former residence of the Lords of Kraus, heading towards "Kofel," a nearby forest hill on which Georg von Kraus ordered a calvary erected from the collapsed remnants of the medieval fortress. When climbing the broad steps at the right, we pass by two chapels and then come to the so-called "Kegelplatz." The "Schattensteig" ("Shadow Staircase") leads down from it to the "Plattenmüller Hole." This picturesque forest staircase has been redesigned as a "Path of Peace" by the middle school students of Castelrotto. There, along the staircase, you can see fourteen stone plates made of porphyry which are decorated with symbols and motifs reflecting the theme of "peace." They discreetly invite the viewer to enter into a contemplative mood – much like the old votive panels did, though in a more-modern frame of reference. This is reflected, too, by the updated style and the more-contemporary topics of some of the depictions.
At the end of the staircase, we follow the Tesimo Brook to the right, ascending slightly to the "Föstl" on the northeastern edge of the village of Castelrotto. There, we cross the brook and follow Trail No. 2 at the right. This is perhaps one of the most-beautiful trails in the region. This old paved church trail leads along a dry wall of stone which is fenced in by a picket fence, the wooden pickets of which are woven to the fence posts with fire-roasted fir branches. It leads through the magnificent meadow landscape, past the beautiful "Lafay" residence from the 16th Century, the hunting hut (adorned with an old heraldic shield over the entrance), and other farm estates rich in tradition. There are several wayside shrines and an inconspicuous votive panel located along the way. They are of no historical/artistic significance, but are evidence of a profoundly-felt religiosity. Due to their harmonious integration in the magnificent Alpine landscape at the foot of the Sciliar Massive, the wanderer who pauses to appreciate them will perhaps sense the hidden connection between the landscape and religious faith.
At the end of the trail, at the "Bremicher-Platzl," we veer to the right towards the "Lafogl-Hof" and the "Schgagul-Hof." At the old "Lafogl-Hof," there's an unprepossessing votive panel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and a bit to the side a typical crucifix. Not far away, at the "Schgagul-Hof," we encounter, in contrast, an old votive panel of significance for the art history of the Sciliar region. This baroque panel – which, however, was probably originally erected in the late-15th Century – has undergone careful restoration by the Local History Association. Its niche frescoes depict the Crucifixion at Golgotha, over which the Holy Ghost hovers; to the side, the Archangel Michael and the figure of a saint can be seen. On the outer sides, there are two saints, and in the middle over the niche, there is a painted tablet which is no longer completely legible.
A few steps further on, we come to the first refreshment opportunity of our journey, the "Sabina" rest-stop; the excellent homemade cakes and pies are not to be missed. The trail now leads us for about 200 meters along the right side of the highway towards St. Ulrich, until we come to the turn-off to Tiolsels, a wonderfully situated group of farmhouses. Once there, we can stop at the "Thomaseth-Hof" and view another very fine stone votive panel. Besides the decorative components, the frescoes in the niche include depictions of the Pietà, the Adoration of the Magi and the Shepherds, and the Holy Ghost hovering over everything. Outside, there is a depiction of Saint Florian and two angel's heads underneath. The decorative false architecture on the sides is of a younger date.
We continue with Trail No. 7 until we reach the "Ladinser-Hof" with its old residential building and its visually impressive fresco on the façade as well as its wayside shrine. At the "Schlernhexe" – a restaurant located a little below the path and featuring simple, hearty fare – there's another opportunity to stop and eat. The trail now ascends slightly. Later, it will take us through verdant fields of wild flowers extending to the "Scherer Platzl." We will pass by modest but reverent wayside shrines. All in all, the landscape is one of impressive beauty. Before us thrones the mighty Sciliar Massive. To the left, there is the Marinzen and the Puflatsch, with its densely wooded slopes. At the right, a little bit lower, there is Kastelruth/Castelrotto and the Kofel. Above the Eisack Valley / Val d'Isarco, we see the Rittner mountain ridge. And behind us are the gently rolling hills and forest of Bühlen.
Soon, we reach a lovingly decorated votive panel dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Here, there is a fork in the trail. Below us, we see a crucifix in the middle of the meadow. It stands on a former cemetery for victims of the Black Plague, and is dedicated to the memory of the victims of that pestilence, which last raged in the 17th Century. The staircase passing by this contemplative place would take us to the St. Valentine Chapel and then on to Siusi, where we could return by bus to Castelrotto. But we shall continue to the left and proceed along Trail No. 6 until we reach the "Psoar-Hof." We pass by the old farmhouse and cross the Alpe di Siusi, continuing until we reach Trotz.
But before we reach the venerable old estate, a wonderful wayside shrine standing all by itself casts its spell over us. The crucifix has an inexplicably deep and powerful link to the landscape. It is the visible sign of the spirit of the landscape and simultaneously the tangible evidence of the deep religiosity of the people of this region. At the "Psoar-Hof," itself, there is, to the left, a very pretty votive panel dedicated to the Virgin Mary. But in front of us, we can admire the old stonework of the residential building with its remarkable frescoes and the ancient stone door frame at the entrance.
In Trotz, the little hamlet above Siusi, there is the "Trotzstube," a cozy, family-oriented rest stop offering a simple, wholesome bill of fare and attentive service. The trail leads us through Trotz to the "Villa Ibsen," which is so named because it belonged to the children and grandchildren of the famous Scandinavian writer Henrik Ibsen, who used to spend his summer holidays there. At the end of the villa, we turn to the left into the forest. The staircase marked with the "Number 4" ascends through the forest area until we reach that section of the Seiser Alm Street which is blocked with traffic is prohibited. We cross the street and follow Trail No. 4 towards Castelrotto. The trail is pleasantly level, and passes through a landscape of unparalleled beauty. At first, we pass along the forest, and then we cross extensive meadow slopes which are open to the southwest. We pass handsome farmhouses, hay stacks standing alone in the fields, and several wayside shrines and votive panels which, as we have seen, are so characteristic of the region in the vicinity of the Sciliar Massive. At the "Panoar-Hof," we take the left-hand trail, which passes by a remarkable votive panel and continues through a narrow orchard to the " Scherer-Platzl." From there, we can continue along Trail No. 6 to the village of Castelrotto, the starting point of our journey.
The route described here is suitable for hikers of all levels, including children. It is designed as a day-long tour, but can be interrupted and shortened at any point. Of course, you can also begin in Siusi. Further, there are several public bus stops along the way. The buses connect the villages of the high-altitude plateau with one another and can be used to comfortably return to the starting point of your journey. We hope that you have found this description intriguing, and that you will be tempted to discover for yourself these living witnesses of a deeply-felt religious faith. Sometimes, one must use more than one's eyes to perceive the true spirit of a landscape.
But the deeper meaning of these wayside shrines is still hidden from superficial observation. Only if one spares the time and effort to look beyond the subjects in the foreground and the immediate impressions they create can one look deeper and partake of the modest beauty of these votive shrines as well as experience the feelings which engendered them. These shrines wait for the passerby who is searching for the spiritual essence of a landscape. Come with us, Gentle Reader, and accompany us on a journey to visit the living witnesses of the profound piety of a simple people, to discover the secret connection between the landscape and religious faith.
Our walk begins at the village square of Castelrotto, which we leave via the right archway of today's Town Hall and the former residence of the Lords of Kraus, heading towards "Kofel," a nearby forest hill on which Georg von Kraus ordered a calvary erected from the collapsed remnants of the medieval fortress. When climbing the broad steps at the right, we pass by two chapels and then come to the so-called "Kegelplatz." The "Schattensteig" ("Shadow Staircase") leads down from it to the "Plattenmüller Hole." This picturesque forest staircase has been redesigned as a "Path of Peace" by the middle school students of Castelrotto. There, along the staircase, you can see fourteen stone plates made of porphyry which are decorated with symbols and motifs reflecting the theme of "peace." They discreetly invite the viewer to enter into a contemplative mood – much like the old votive panels did, though in a more-modern frame of reference. This is reflected, too, by the updated style and the more-contemporary topics of some of the depictions.
At the end of the staircase, we follow the Tesimo Brook to the right, ascending slightly to the "Föstl" on the northeastern edge of the village of Castelrotto. There, we cross the brook and follow Trail No. 2 at the right. This is perhaps one of the most-beautiful trails in the region. This old paved church trail leads along a dry wall of stone which is fenced in by a picket fence, the wooden pickets of which are woven to the fence posts with fire-roasted fir branches. It leads through the magnificent meadow landscape, past the beautiful "Lafay" residence from the 16th Century, the hunting hut (adorned with an old heraldic shield over the entrance), and other farm estates rich in tradition. There are several wayside shrines and an inconspicuous votive panel located along the way. They are of no historical/artistic significance, but are evidence of a profoundly-felt religiosity. Due to their harmonious integration in the magnificent Alpine landscape at the foot of the Sciliar Massive, the wanderer who pauses to appreciate them will perhaps sense the hidden connection between the landscape and religious faith.
At the end of the trail, at the "Bremicher-Platzl," we veer to the right towards the "Lafogl-Hof" and the "Schgagul-Hof." At the old "Lafogl-Hof," there's an unprepossessing votive panel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and a bit to the side a typical crucifix. Not far away, at the "Schgagul-Hof," we encounter, in contrast, an old votive panel of significance for the art history of the Sciliar region. This baroque panel – which, however, was probably originally erected in the late-15th Century – has undergone careful restoration by the Local History Association. Its niche frescoes depict the Crucifixion at Golgotha, over which the Holy Ghost hovers; to the side, the Archangel Michael and the figure of a saint can be seen. On the outer sides, there are two saints, and in the middle over the niche, there is a painted tablet which is no longer completely legible.
A few steps further on, we come to the first refreshment opportunity of our journey, the "Sabina" rest-stop; the excellent homemade cakes and pies are not to be missed. The trail now leads us for about 200 meters along the right side of the highway towards St. Ulrich, until we come to the turn-off to Tiolsels, a wonderfully situated group of farmhouses. Once there, we can stop at the "Thomaseth-Hof" and view another very fine stone votive panel. Besides the decorative components, the frescoes in the niche include depictions of the Pietà, the Adoration of the Magi and the Shepherds, and the Holy Ghost hovering over everything. Outside, there is a depiction of Saint Florian and two angel's heads underneath. The decorative false architecture on the sides is of a younger date.
We continue with Trail No. 7 until we reach the "Ladinser-Hof" with its old residential building and its visually impressive fresco on the façade as well as its wayside shrine. At the "Schlernhexe" – a restaurant located a little below the path and featuring simple, hearty fare – there's another opportunity to stop and eat. The trail now ascends slightly. Later, it will take us through verdant fields of wild flowers extending to the "Scherer Platzl." We will pass by modest but reverent wayside shrines. All in all, the landscape is one of impressive beauty. Before us thrones the mighty Sciliar Massive. To the left, there is the Marinzen and the Puflatsch, with its densely wooded slopes. At the right, a little bit lower, there is Kastelruth/Castelrotto and the Kofel. Above the Eisack Valley / Val d'Isarco, we see the Rittner mountain ridge. And behind us are the gently rolling hills and forest of Bühlen.
Soon, we reach a lovingly decorated votive panel dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Here, there is a fork in the trail. Below us, we see a crucifix in the middle of the meadow. It stands on a former cemetery for victims of the Black Plague, and is dedicated to the memory of the victims of that pestilence, which last raged in the 17th Century. The staircase passing by this contemplative place would take us to the St. Valentine Chapel and then on to Siusi, where we could return by bus to Castelrotto. But we shall continue to the left and proceed along Trail No. 6 until we reach the "Psoar-Hof." We pass by the old farmhouse and cross the Alpe di Siusi, continuing until we reach Trotz.
But before we reach the venerable old estate, a wonderful wayside shrine standing all by itself casts its spell over us. The crucifix has an inexplicably deep and powerful link to the landscape. It is the visible sign of the spirit of the landscape and simultaneously the tangible evidence of the deep religiosity of the people of this region. At the "Psoar-Hof," itself, there is, to the left, a very pretty votive panel dedicated to the Virgin Mary. But in front of us, we can admire the old stonework of the residential building with its remarkable frescoes and the ancient stone door frame at the entrance.
In Trotz, the little hamlet above Siusi, there is the "Trotzstube," a cozy, family-oriented rest stop offering a simple, wholesome bill of fare and attentive service. The trail leads us through Trotz to the "Villa Ibsen," which is so named because it belonged to the children and grandchildren of the famous Scandinavian writer Henrik Ibsen, who used to spend his summer holidays there. At the end of the villa, we turn to the left into the forest. The staircase marked with the "Number 4" ascends through the forest area until we reach that section of the Seiser Alm Street which is blocked with traffic is prohibited. We cross the street and follow Trail No. 4 towards Castelrotto. The trail is pleasantly level, and passes through a landscape of unparalleled beauty. At first, we pass along the forest, and then we cross extensive meadow slopes which are open to the southwest. We pass handsome farmhouses, hay stacks standing alone in the fields, and several wayside shrines and votive panels which, as we have seen, are so characteristic of the region in the vicinity of the Sciliar Massive. At the "Panoar-Hof," we take the left-hand trail, which passes by a remarkable votive panel and continues through a narrow orchard to the " Scherer-Platzl." From there, we can continue along Trail No. 6 to the village of Castelrotto, the starting point of our journey.
The route described here is suitable for hikers of all levels, including children. It is designed as a day-long tour, but can be interrupted and shortened at any point. Of course, you can also begin in Siusi. Further, there are several public bus stops along the way. The buses connect the villages of the high-altitude plateau with one another and can be used to comfortably return to the starting point of your journey. We hope that you have found this description intriguing, and that you will be tempted to discover for yourself these living witnesses of a deeply-felt religious faith. Sometimes, one must use more than one's eyes to perceive the true spirit of a landscape.
